Two examples:
1) A floating mount
Tools needed:
- Staple gun ( I use an electric staple gun because it is much easier to use than a manual one.)
- Staples of different lengths for ease of use and thicker or thin fabrics. (Corners where you have several layers may require a longer staple.) I use 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″
- Hammer used to flatten any staples that don’t seat all the way down.
- Screw gun with tip to match screw heads. Used to screw wood together.
- Screws
- Measuring device
- Drill bit slightly larger than the screw diameter
- Scissors for cutting fabric.
- Pencil
- Pliers to remove errant staples.
- Flat head screw driver or other small device to remove errant staples
- Lint brush or tape for lint removal
- Saw to cut wood
- Wood I often use 1 x 2″ wood which is actually 3/4 x 1 1/2 inches. You can use either dimension for your depth.
- White unbleached flannel for lining
- Finish Fabric that will work well with the colors in the tapestry to be mounted. I prefer natural fibers like wool, cotton or linen. I will also use polyester if I can’t find something else. Never use spandex because it will break down over time and sag.
- Curved or straight needle (your preference) I use a blunt needle so I don’t pierce the warps.
- Sewing thread in a color that will not show on the tapestry and mounting fabric.
PROCESS
I make my mounting stretchers the same size or a tiny bit small than the tapestry to be mounted. So if the tapestry is 10 x 10 inches my mount will be 9.75 x 9.75 inches. If my tapestry is slightly off square it will be less evident and it also gives a slight floating effect.
I cut two pieces of wood the shortest length and then two pieces the length minus the thickness of the wood x 2. For example:
If my mount is to be 9.75 x 9.75″ and my wood is .75 inches thick I will cut two pieces 9.75 and two pieces 8.25. (9.75 – (2 x.75)= 8.25 inches long.
I mark the thickness of the wood on the pieces to be drilled so I place the through holes for the screws in the right place. Then I drill my holes, and screw the pieces together. 
To be sure the mount is square and even I may have to tap a few corners with the hammer to even up the wood.
STAPLE LINING
Cut a piece of white flannel larger than the size you need to wrap around the sides to the back of the mount with enough to grab and pull on. I happen to have a body of baby whale corduroy I’ve been using).
Begin stapling one edge, followed by the opposite edge. If you have a selvage edge begin there.
Try to pull evenly and tight. Then staple the two opposite sides, pulling evenly and tight. You don’t need a lot of staples because your finish fabric will be covering this lining. Every 3 – 4 inches is enough.
If you need to remove a staple use the flat head screw driver or other thin potted device to lift the staple and if need be grab it with the pliers to remove. If the staples don’t sit all the way down you can hammer them home.
One you have stapled all the way around, cut the fabric close to the wood on all four sides and the corners as well. See photo.
FINISH FABRIC
Cut a piece of fabric larger than the width depth and back edges so you have fabric to grab and pull on. Press your fabric. You not only want to get out any creases, you also want to square it up with the grain. Place your mount on the fabric and if you have a selvage edge begin with that to insure straight grain. If you are not planning to cover the full back of the mount, I suggest you turn the edges of your fabric under as in the photo at right. I you plan to cover the back completely you do not need to fold under the edge.
I begin stapling in the center and work my way to each corner placing a staple about every 3 inches. Once I finish I go back and fill in in-between the staples so I have a staple about every 1 – 1.5 inches. Do not staple closer than about three inches from the corners yet. Then I go back and hammer all staples home. I keep my staples toward the inside edge so I have room to staple my backing on without hitting a previous staple.
CORNERS
Once you have your sides stapled you are ready for the corners. Choose one side that will be on the bottom of the fold and staple it down closer to the corner.
There are different ways to approach the fold. Below are two examples, but no matter how you fold your corners be sure to be neat and use only as many staples as you must because you will either be covering this with a finish cloth or it will be your finished back. You want it to be as neat and professional as possible. The examples below will be covered with a complete backing so the edges do not need to be folded under.
Sample one:
Sample two:
COMPLETE BACKING
Cut your backing fabric slightly larger than the back, press and square it up.
If you plan to sew a label to the backing now is the time.
Fold one side of the fabric and staple. (I will sometimes press the first fold. Especially if I have a selvage edge to insure it is straight.) Fold the opposite side and staple. Fold and staple the remaining sides. Add hanging devices. You may want to camouflage the staples with a marker that matches the fabric backing. I could have used a black sharpie on mine. Also, as you can see my staples are all askew. I suggest trying to keep your staples lined up for a more professional look.
Check for any stray threads. I use a lint brush.
SEWING THE TAPESTRY TO THE MOUNT
Some people like to press their tapestry before mounting. I rarely do this myself, but sometimes I feel the is a need. Pressing flattens out the beads of the weaving. Steaming is sometimes done as well. The problem with either approach is that over time the tapestry reverts back to its original state.
Once you are ready to sew your tapestry to the mount lay the work on top and center it. I place large straight pins in the corners first, adjusting as I go to get the placement just right. Then I place pins on the edges. I use regular sewing thread in a single strand for small works in a color that will blend well with the colors I am sewing through.
When you are sewing be sure not to sew through a warp thread. This will weaken the thread and possibly cause trouble later in the life of the tapestry. I learned a simple way to thread the needle that allows the use of a single thread but locks the thread to the needle from Archie Brennan. Thread the needle with a loop, then slip the loop over the point of the needle tightening it down around the eye. When you need more thread slip the loop off and pull the thread through to give you more thread to sew with. This allows you to sew with one strand without it coming off the needle and you also are storing extra thread to use as you sew.
Begin sewing at a bottom corner and work your way around. If your knot will not hold in the fabric sew a small X and then begin at the edge. If you run out of thread knot it under the tapestry and begin again under the tapestry to hide the knot.
Sew over the warps or wefts, not through. When done hide the knot or sew an X. I try to leave the bottom of the tapestry a bit loose in case the work stretches. This allows the work to sag instead of poof out because the bottom is sewn tight. Neither is good, but sagging is preferred to pillowing out.
The image to the right appears to be floating off the wall with the mount slightly smaller than the tapestry. Although the tapestry is not perfectly square it is not as noticeable on a floating mount.
The label on the back of Ingrid is awful. i now use a custom printed label I make myself. Read about it here.
2) Mounting on a board
Tools needed:
- Staple gun ( I use an electric staple gun because it is much easier to use than a manual one.)
- Staples of different lengths for ease of use and thicker or thin fabrics. (Corners where you have several layers may require a longer staple.) I use 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″
- Hammer used to flatten any staples that don’t seat all the way down.
- Screw gun with tip to match screw heads. Only needed if you are screwing hardware into the back. A screw driver will work too.
- Mounting hardware of your choice
- Measuring device
- Scissors for cutting fabric.
- Pliers to remove staples if you need to.
- Flat head screw driver or other small device to remove errant staples
- Lint brush or tape to remove lint.
- Saw to cut wood
- Wood I used 1/2 inch plywood for this tutorial. You may want thicker for a larger piece.
- Unbleached white flannel for lining
- Finish Fabric that will show and work well with the colors in the tapestry to be mounted. I prefer natural fibers like wool, cotton or linen. I will also use polyester if I can’t find something else. Never use spandex because it will break down over time and sag.
- Sewing needles I use blunt needles that will not pierce the warps.
- Thread in a color that will not show on the tapestry.
Process
Once the plywood is cut to size and sanded smooth lay it on the lining material. (If you are concerned about archival finishing you may wish to seal the wood with shellac or white paint.) Begin stapling two opposing sides, placing the staples toward the center of the board. (I do the so I don’t need to worry about stapling over these later with the finish fabric.) Cut the fabric back as you see in the photos below. 
When you are done the lining covered board should look like the photo below right. It is fully covered with no overlaps to keep down bulk.
Next pin the tapestry to the center of the finish fabric in preparation for sewing.
Sew the tapestry to the fabric. I use blunt needles so I don’t piece the warps and thread to match each color I am sewing through.
Make sure the tapestry is centered on the board before stapling. I left more finish fabric than I needed, but you can see I was careful to pull the corners tight. (See photos above in example 1 for more on folding the corners.) In the final photo I have stapled the back covering of finish fabric in place.
Before stapling the backing on I sewed on a custom label I printed. I then ironed a fold in all four sides to fit just a bit smaller than the board (more about the label here). All that needs to be done is add hanging hardware of your choice. Be sure the screws are not longer than the thickness of your wood.
